Goodfella’s offers taste of New York

A sign lit in traditional Italian green and red reads "Goodfella's Pizzeria, Italian Restaurant and Catering," burning its words into the night like a proud and glorious flag.

The scents of melted mozzarella, roasted garlic and rising crusts drift across the map of our college town like a warm and savory version of Pig Pen's dust cloud, tickling the noses of pizza lovers near and far and drawing them over.

Ever since they moved down from Queens, N.Y., and opened Goodfella's more than 12 years ago, owners Sal Ciaccio and Marco DiIorio have been offering "the best slice this side of Brooklyn" in Orlando.

From the beginning, they've made it their goal to build a community around their first-class eats. They want to play the part in town of the stereotypical Italian grandma, the one who's always happy to see you, always standing by the stove, scooping more onto your plate, yelling, "Mangia, mangia!"

Set against a backdrop of kitchen noise and laughter, Ciaccio speaks with great pride about his role in the community.

"We make our own dough and sauces and soups and meatballs," he said. "Everything's fresh, nothing frozen. That's what we take most of our pride in. We use all the best ingredients…and that's what separates us from the other places. To eat good stuff, you got to use good stuff."

And the customers can tell. Just ask senior computer science major and Goodfella's self-proclaimed No. 1 fan, Spencer Zierk.

"Wow," he said, smirking and looking at the ceiling. "They're very fast at taking orders and...making the pies. And their crust is beyond words. It's delicious."

Junior psychology major Melissa Smith agreed. She and Zierk have been loyal patrons since they each had their first tastes more than two years ago.

"It's like they have a hypnotic draw," Smith said. "I don't have a least favorite aspect. It's just a package deal."

With an intimate yet casual candlelit interior, full wine lists juxtaposed next to walls peppered with mafia shots, food awards and New York sports memorabilia, Goodfella's offers a nice ambience for dining.  Their menu has everything from ravioli to chicken francese, but it's the pizza that stands center-stage — and everybody has their pick.

Smith likes the pepperoni. "It's classic, but it's amazing the way they do it," she said.

And Zierk's pie of choice? "Eggplant," he said without hesitation. "Find me another place in town with eggplant and I give you a liar."

Despite their continued success, though, Sal and Marco have no intention of opening another branch.

"Never," Ciaccio said simply. "This is the first place. We're the original. I'm over here, you know? The customers know me. I watched a lot of their kids grow up."

Most of the staff has been working there for more than five years.

"Me and my partner, we just focus on this place and be the best we can be here," he said. "[With more locations] you really kind of lose out on that...base with the customers."

And it's a base that customers appreciate as much as Ciaccio does.

"They know me in there now," Zierk said with a smile. "This place is only getting better!"

For Ciaccio and DiIornio, serving food isn't just work, it's a way of being a part of something bigger, of connecting with people and knowing that what they do affects them.

"When people leave this place and appreciate us and our food," Ciaccio said, "that's a huge compliment. They appreciate us and we appreciate them."